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An evening in Champlitte [Sep. 7th, 2015|10:34 pm]
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A month ago, I wrote about the last time we were in France, expecting to return to the topic within days, and to tidy away the end of the story not long after. But that was a month ago (to the day). Ah, well.

My notes for the next stage of the joutney say only two things. Firstly, without explanation: Haute-Saône celebrates 20 years twinning with Mexico. This disconcerted me so much that I initially attributed it to the previous post, but on reflection it belongs here, with the record of a night in the department of Haute-Saône (and a quick search doesn't explain how this area came to be twinned with Mexico, but at least confirms that I hadn't imagined it).

We had come to Champlitte without knowing anything about the town, having picked up a list of Logis de France hotels at the tourist office after lunch, and decided that there was only one on our route north and within an afternoon's drive: I think it was this one, which seems to have the right location opposite the town's little château (now museum). This website explains (in French) how historic the place is, and how diminished from its days of glory: click on its postage stamp images to see photos of its most picturesque sites on a sunny day. Which is fortunate: I have the happiest memories of our explorations before dinner that evening, following whichever street looked most tempting, peering into courtyards and taking many, many photos. But when I look through those photos now, the ones I am happiest with show neither the castle nor the river, and the sun isn't shining in any of them. In fact, this is not atypical:


Maybe an extreme example, though. In the interests of balance, here's a more touristic view past the fountain and down the street:


There were many handsome buidings, but most of them looked neglected, decaying:

Behind the fountain

The cracks running through those windows can't be healthy. High on the walls, little figures of saints praying, presumably, that the masonry wouldn't crumble beneath them. I liked this madonna beset by chunky cherubs:

Attended by angels

and Saint Nicholas, with the three students he has resurrected from the pickle barrel:

Saint Nicholas

We have commerce, as well as religion:


And this fine contribution to my collection of cross-cultural pizze: is 'poule au pot' one of the toppings on offer (only on Sundays, perhaps)?

Because everybody loves pizza

We didn't ask, but returned instead to our hotel, and dined there. With a bottle of organic rosé Pascal HENRIOT VdP Champlitte, although I don't remember anything about the wine, but it's the second thing in my notes. Presumably this winemaker, and we would have chosen it as being the most local option, and I must have liked it, or I wouldn't have made a note of it.

[User Picture]From: sartorias
2015-09-07 11:08 pm (UTC)
Gorgeous photos, but my quake-consciousness gave me real shivers at the sight of that one wall with those high cracks.
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[User Picture]From: shewhomust
2015-09-08 08:46 am (UTC)
Oh, dear! That had never occurred to me, as I have no quake-consciousness at all. I'm grieved for a fine old building in an unstable state, but without that particular twist!
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From: athenais
2015-09-08 03:00 am (UTC)
It's a shame that the building with cracks isn't being repaired, but the cost must be ghastly.

I would totally have had Henri Quatorze pizza.
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[User Picture]From: shewhomust
2015-09-08 08:48 am (UTC)
There was quite a lot of building work going on elsewhere - perhaps they've reached that building by now (I hope so).

And I do enjoy eating pizza-as-interpreted-in-places-to-which-it-is-not-indigenous. Didn't mean to suggest otherwise!
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From: cmcmck
2015-09-08 07:20 am (UTC)
Love that first shot, but you knew I would! :o)
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[User Picture]From: shewhomust
2015-09-08 08:49 am (UTC)
I look forward to your holiday shots of decay and abandonment!
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[User Picture]From: gillpolack
2015-09-11 02:23 pm (UTC)
Those post-pickled children look very grumpy. This makes me happy.
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[User Picture]From: shewhomust
2015-09-11 04:35 pm (UTC)
You'd look pretty sour if you'd been pickled.

(Sorry. Couldn't resist).
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[User Picture]From: gillpolack
2015-09-11 09:21 pm (UTC)
No need to apologise, a joke like that is irresistible.
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[User Picture]From: shewhomust
2015-09-13 10:30 am (UTC)
I love the lace curtains they have in these old houses, the single panel of lace showing a scene...
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